Sunday, February 28, 2010

El Bolsón, part 1

I am going to have to tell this story in parts because it is rather long. Here is what I have so far:

El Bolsón. Oh El Bolsón. Where do I begin to describe my experiences there? A lot can happen in a week.

Maybe it was because I was homesick, or just sick of city life, but I was ready to leave Buenos Aires. My language program had gone on for about a week to long and I was itching to see something new. Getting on the bus at Retiro, I was excited for the journey ahead. I didn’t know what to expect for farm living. I realized I was going to the woods, but hadn’t given the actual day-to-day existence much thought. I was going to a ‘farm’, whatever that meant. I figured I would be milking cows, or something. I probably would have had a better idea if I had actually read the description of the place before arriving.

The bus from Buenos Aires to El Bolsón was relatively painless. The bus, comprised only of first class seats, had great food and lots of alcohol. The twenty-plus hour ride passed very quickly due to the combination of many movies, fully reclining seats, and lots of cocktails in Styrofoam cups. For the record, Julia and Julia is a very cute movie.

After arriving in Bolsón, I pulled out the directions for the chacra (organic farm), and found the first remis (local taxi). I handed the directions to the driver and told him to take me to the farm. At the time I didn’t think much of it, but he had no idea where the place was. I should have taken this as a sign. After driving for about 20 minutes away from Bolsón, and towards the middle of no-where, he had to pull over to ask for directions to the farm. As it turned out, the distance from where he first pulled over to the chacra was less than a kilometer, but the 3+ stops for help made it feel much longer.

After arriving at ‘Aqui y Ahora’—here and now—he let me out and told me I should walk the rest of the way. He promptly drove off and I was left at a fence in the middle of the forest with a road behind it leading off into the distance. I opened the fence and walked down the road with my bags to a house around the bend. It was at this point that I started thinking ‘What have I gotten myself into?’.

‘Hola’ I shout. No response.

‘Hola, me llamo Chase Hensel. Soy un miembro de WWOOF’ I shout a second time.

‘Hola! Me llamo Emile, mi hermano Arturo esta tomando una siesta adento. Un Segundo' someone shouts. There was a man sitting in a lawn chair in the grass in front of the house. The man, Emile, gets up, walks over to me, gives me a hug, and walks inside the house to grab his brother, Arturo. Thank god I thought, I am in the right place. Arturo was the name of my WWOOF contact.

Arturo, Emile and I had a brief conversation about how strange it was that I was from New York City, exchanged pleasantries, and hug a second time. The two brothers then lead me to the adobe in which I was to live and work on for the next two weeks.

Friday, February 19, 2010

Last day in Buenos Aires

Today is my last day in Buenos Aires. This afternoon I take a 20+ hour bus south to el Bolsón Argentina (two hours south of Bariloche). If you want to hear anything more about the trip let me know.

--Chase

Wednesday, February 17, 2010

Buenos Aires at night

Here is the Buenos Aires skyline at night from the river:

Monday, February 15, 2010

Running through a tropical storm.. or how I ruined my iPod

This past weekend I went to Punta Del Este--the Hampton's of South America. With good reason, Punta is the first place I have been on the trip whose prices are on par with Manhattan. The city is beautiful. Set on a peninsula in the southeastern corner of Uruguay, half of Punta's beaches are in the tranquil Mar de la Plata, and the other half in the turbulent Atlantic Ocean.

Beach surrounds most of the cityscape providing amazing views from all sides. On the Atlantic, massive waves crush into a mix of black-stone and sand. In the river, one can see large stretches of green and yellow coast reminiscent of Corona commercials on TV.

My hostel was cove-side, fifty feet from the playa. Each morning, I braved the topical sun and walked the boardwalk that separated city-Punta from the ocean. This boardwalk was 5500 meters long and a prime location for local fitness gurus. It started on the bay-side, wrapped around the eastern point (Punta del Este) and ended at the large bronze statue of a hand protruding from the Atlantic beach--if you know anything else about Punta besides its nickname, it would be this hand.

Fancying myself a fitness buff, after walking the boardwalk the first morning, I decided to go for a run after the day's heat had subsided. Accordingly, I played in the big waves for a few hours, took a long siesta in a hammock outside my hostel, and then took another siesta in my bed--I'm leading a hard life down here :)

The majority of the day was sunny and blistering--maybe 95 degrees Fahrenheit at peak. Around 7 o'clock pm my waiting paid off... or so I thought. Clouds had filled the sky and the day's heat had vanished. I put on my gym shorts, grabbed my iPod, put on my sneakers and went running shirtless on the boardwalk (I know what you're thinking, but when in Rome).

I had made it roughly 500 meters when it started to drizzle. The ‘harmless’ clouds from before had turned out to be rain clouds. At the time I didn’t think much of the rain and continued to run, marveling in the view and enjoying the tepid weather. As I continued on, the rain slowly increased in strength and fervor. I ran and it rained.

As I reached the eastern point the monsoon struck. I learned that rain in the topics can come on quickly. The clouds had turned black and the wind had picked up considerably. Trees swayed, and I was drenched. At this point a car driving by stopped to ask if I wanted a ride. I graciously said no because I was close to home and waved them off. I struggled to keep running.

About 500 meters past the point I had to turn off my iPod for fear of breaking it in the rain (I later found out that the iPod was fine, but its speakers were indeed broken). I cut into a side street thinking I was close to home. In reality the hostel was 2 km away.

I kept running through in the dark (the clouds masked all light) as people around me fled frantically, and the water level in the streets started to rise. Signs we knocked over and branches broken from trees. Needless to say, I was a bit scared.

I ran through the center of town, the streets deserted as people hid from the rain in shops. My shoes were waterlogged and I was drenched. Finally, after about 8 more minutes of trudging through the rain, I reached my hostel. I walked into the building, shirtless, drenched, with a broken iPod in my hands, and recieived some strange looks. I smiled and commented ‘Pues, por lo menos no necesito ducharme por la lluvia’ (Well, at least I don’t have to take shower because of the rain), and walked to my room.

The rain left as quickly as it started. 30 minutes later the skies were clear and people resumed outdoor life. Order was restored. If you ever get the chance, run through a tropical storm. It’s an interesting experience.

I went for more or less the same run the next day (during the morning, with the locals this time), sin iPod, without any turmoil. It wasn't actually that bad.

Thursday, February 11, 2010

China Town!

Here are some photos of my trip to Buenos Aires's China Town last weekend. Turns out you can get chicken lo mein in South America...

Tuesday, February 9, 2010

Tigre

On Saturday my friend Dustin (a cowboy from Colorado) and I went to an amusement park in a suburb of Buenos Aires called Tigre. There were no lines for any of the rides because of scattered showers during the day. Thankfully, the weather didn't close the park and we went on its two different roller-coasters 10 times each.

Tigre is slightly up-river from Buenos Aires, and is right in the beautiful Delta region of Argentina. The following pictures are from my 1 hour boat trip in the delta.



All in all this was a hilarious trip. It may not look it from the pictures, but everything was slightly off--I imagine it was kind of like visiting euro-disney in South America.

I will recount one ride--'El Infierno'. The Inferno is a haunted house. This ride starts with Dustin and I waiting in line for about 10 minutes, not quite sure what we are waiting for. (I only realized what a casa embrujada was after the fact) After the wait, 4 excited argentinians, Dustin and I were led into a hallway by a 5'4 ghoulish porteño with an ax. He led us down a corridor where the hallway was progressively darker and the ceiling progressively lower. After a bit of walking, Dustin and I (both over 6 feet) had to crouch-over, while everyone else could stand relatively normally.

At this point the hallway made a turn and the light completely cut out for the rest of the trip. Dustin and I had the same thought, we are going to get mugged by a ghoul in a haunted house in Argentina.

After about 15 minutes of walking into walls, having short men jump out at us from corners, crouching over to fit inside the hallway, and harassment by the short man with the ax to keep on pace, I was ready for the ride to be over. That was one of the scariest experiences of my life, and I was glad I got out alive!

Afterwards I ate a choripan, drank an agua sin gas and went on the log flume.

All in all an awesome day.

Wednesday, February 3, 2010

Yellow fever

Today I got the free yellow fever vaccine for the trip I am taking into the Bolivian jungle next month. This experience was a good test of my spanish skills. None of the nurses spoke English, and I had to make sure I would have no medical complications, receive instructions on what I can and can't do during the next ten days, and ensure and that the needle was clean. At a minimum I wanted to avoid accidentally getting aids or something to that effect.

The clinic was a quick experience. You show up, hand over your passport, wait in line, two minutes later you have a needle in your arm, and a piece of paper in your hand confirming that you received the vaccine. Afterwards you are sent on your way... without a lollypop :(

The Argentinean government offers free vaccines because the country is so close to so many place that require them (Bolivia, Brazil, Venezuela, ect.). I tried to capture some of this experience in photo, but I wasn't able to do it complete justice because I didn't get a shot of the examination room. I definitely got what I paid for in terms of the amount of hand holding I received, and overall sketchiness of the experience.

The building is the clinic:
Sign on the door signifying what was inside:
Hallway of the clinic:
Information they have for you to read after receiving the vaccine:
Certification of vaccination:


Monday, February 1, 2010

River Plate

Soccer fans in Argentina are famous for being 'overly enthused'. By this I mean they live the sport and get violent over it very quickly. I was told before I came to Buenos Aires that the only time I had to watch myself was during a game because I would probably get robbed or stabbed.

Yesterday I went to a River Plate game. River Plate is one of the two most popular teams in Buenos Aires. They are housed in a quaint stadium with a capacity of roughly 80,000. This place looks like a prison in comparison to most American stadiums. The reason being that the fans from the opposing teams must be separated by barbed wire in order to prevent scuffles, no alcohol can be served at the games, and fans from opposing sides must enter and exit the stadium at different times (again to prevent brawls).

Home team:

Away team: (See the barb wire)


I knew all of these facts beforehand and consequently did the smart thing (this time) and bought tourist tickets. For about 5 times the price (80 USD) I bought sideline tickets in a 'rich person's section', avoiding potential skirmishes. This worked out pretty well, and I ended up seeing a good game (River lost 1-0).

Actual game:

Fans here are interesting because they actually care. For example, getting up in the middle of a half is unheard of, and talking to friends is frowned upon. The idea is to watch, and support your team (from the day you are born until death).

Hear is a very short clip of what it sounds like to be inside the stadium:

Despite losing, and having to wait 45 minutes after the game for the opposing teams fans to leave the stadium, the River fans still cheered incessantly. The stadium was that loud until the River fans started to exit.